What is Meskel?
Meskel (መስቀል, “cross”) commemorates the finding of the True Cross. According to tradition, Empress Helena (Queen Eleni in Ethiopia), mother of Constantine, found the cross on which Jesus was crucified in the 4th century after the smoke of a great fire showed her where to dig. Ethiopian tradition holds that a piece of the cross was later brought to Ethiopia and is kept at the monastery of Gishen Mariam. Meskel is a public holiday in Ethiopia and is celebrated in Eritrea too. UNESCO inscribed it as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2013.
Why September 27, and sometimes 28?
Meskel is fixed on Meskerem 17, two and a half weeks after the Ethiopian New Year. That is September 27 in most years and September 28 in the year after an Ethiopian leap year, when the new year starts a day later.
Demera: the bonfire
The highlight is the Demera on the eve of Meskel (Meskerem 16). People build a tall cone of branches topped with a cross and decorated with yellow Meskel daisies (adey abeba), which bloom across the highlands at this time of year. After prayers and singing, the Demera is lit at dusk, recalling Helena’s fire. The direction in which it falls is traditionally read as a sign for the year ahead. In Addis Ababa, tens of thousands gather in Meskel Square for the biggest Demera of all.
Meskel around Ethiopia
- Among the Gurage, Meskel is the biggest family festival of the year: people travel home, and kitfo is the dish of the day.
- In the south, many communities celebrate Meskel with several days of feasting, music and dance.
- The rainy season is ending, and Meskel marks the start of the bright season.
Meskel abroad
Diaspora churches light smaller Demera bonfires in churchyards and parks, usually on the weekend nearest Meskel.